Y era,
with its five villages overlooking its idyllic gulf, the gulf of
olive grooves, is a splendid area lying at the southeastern border
of Lesvos. A sixth
settlement, Perama, which serves as a harbor to the other five
villages, is laid out on a tree-clad lowland wherein lush orchards
and flowing springs abound: in autumn, the plain is suffused with
the colors of fruit-bearing pomegranates and quince trees, while in
springtime the singing of the midnight nightingale is wafted in the
still of the night.
The century-long history of Yera is lost
into time. In the course of the Roman era, a coastal town, under the
name Yera, was laid out in the area of Halatses, and was eventually
devastated by seismotectonic process by the 1st century AD.
Archaeological finds come to uphold this historical information. In
all probability, following this calamity, settlements were
established from the coastal zone of the gulf in the ensuing years.
From various historical testimonies, it transpires that Skopelos and
Mesagros are the older villages .
Yera having received influences during the
Genoese domination in Lesvos, subsequently came under the rule of
Ottoman Turks.
The early years of this period must have been very difficult.
However, a sort of equilibrium was later achieved, allowing for a
peaceful coexistance between the Ottomans and the greek inhabitants
who actually came to prevail in the economic and the social domain
towards the end of the Ottoman occupation. In addition, the greek
Orthodox Church managed to preserve intact and inviolate the
traditions and mores of the Greek culture.
During the final years of the Ottoman
rule, as well as in the period between the world wars, the region
witnessed an era of significant development, a reality
manifested by the industrial units established a
that time, such as, oil presses and factories, tanneries, soapmaking
factories and enterprises focusing on the trade
of olive oil and its by-products. The port of Perama was bustling
with commercial activity, with several companies of Yera had
established branch offices in Constantinople, Egypt and in other
countries of Europe.
Mansions
situated in the villages also come to
denote the prosperity experienced in those days. Wealth,
nevertheless, was concentrated by a restricted number of
individuals, land owners and merchants for the most part,
while the majority of people who toiled in the
fields, in harsh conditions, lived on the poverty line. One should
not be oblivious of
the positive impact exerted on the region by the Greeks of Asia
Minor who after being incorporated to the
population of Yera in the wake of 1922,
gave a considerable boost to the era's development.
The years of the German Occupation were also a trying period for the
inhabitants of Yera. After the 1950's, the economic recession and
the general lack of employment drove many young people to seek a
more favorable life outside their country's barriers, mainly in
Germany, the United States and Australia. A great many of them were
assimilated into the population of Athens.

The emigrants of Yera have prospered financially and many among them
have excelled in the scientific field. In
recent years, immigration to the greek capital and abroad has
declined and a tendency for repatriation has been largely observed.
Many of the old customs and manners have been preserved by the
people of Yera while the local dialect- although on the wane in many
other regions of Greece- has been kept alive in this area.
The local inhabitants are generally known for their hospitality, wit
and sense of humor, the latter chiming in perfectly with their
vernacular. Although the love for one's birthplace is a commonly
shared feeling among Greeks, it is more intensely experienced by the
people of Yera. Perhaps it is the alluring natural scenery of this
unique place that arouses such a feeling.
Monuments-Buildings
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The Vrana mansion in Papados, family house
of Od. Elyti's mother. The
family roots of the poet arectraced to Yera. Nowadays, the
mansion houses the area's Town Hall. |
In the large, cool square of Skopelos,
stands a fountain made of local blue marble, built in 1813.
The pleasant cool and aroma of the planes
overhanging the square afford an agreeable shade and invite
visitors to indulge in a cup of coffee in one of the Kafenia(
coffee shops) that line it. |
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The underground catacombs, the Lagoumia, of
Saint Magdalene in Skopelos, lead to the rock of Agiasma,
wherefrom the holy water trickles. The festival of Saint
Magdalene is celebrated in a glorious atmosphere in July..
People from every part of the island flock
to it, and many are the events which take place in honor of
the saint. |
The Fountain of the Palea Kato Agora (old
Lower Market) of Skopelos, constructed in 1911, is made of
marble that was transported from Taslik. The Turkish
inscription which is still preserved today reads: "brothers
sharing the same religious faith, clubbed together to bring
water to this fountain.
May their souls plunge in the waters of the
Meliritos River This is what love and piece can achieve". The
inscription is written in verse in archaic Turkish. The
information on the translation into Greek was provided by the
pharmacist and folklore poet Mr. S. Evangelinos. |
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Painter Theophillos adorned the walls of this old bakery,
situated in the Region of Mesagros.
Many local people remember that Theophillos was asking to
paint the small coffee shops in order to earn a loaf of bread in reward.
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Perama
Perama is the
harbor of Gera. In the past its bustling quayside was flooded with barrels of
olive oil rolled by porters down to the berth, where ships awaited their cargo.
Vessels were calling at Perama discharging hosts of goods: melons and
watermelons, legumes, onions, bales of hay for the cattle in winter, earthenware
jugs and large cooking-pots.
Since the automobile was an inexistent commodity at the
time, those who wished to go to Mytilini boarded, along with their livestock,
spacious barges, propelled by oars and sails, and crossed over to Kandouridia
and Akoth.
Wholesale stores abounded in
a region of Perama, thus, attracting a great number of people who rode down from
the upper villages on mules, do nkeys
or horses.
The latter, partly covered with colorful woven rugs, were usually stabled at the
khans, which functioned as a "parking area" at the
time.
At the left tip of the
harbor, lied the old fish market, the balouhanas, a wooden building supported by
wooden piles driven dip into the
bottom of the sea. Boats were moored underneath the
platform and fish was carried up through a trapdoor in the
building's wooden floor. Fishermen woold load their donkeys with crates of fish
and set out for the nearby villages, roving through
the lanes and pedding their haul.
Today the wooden balouhanas no longer exists. At its site, a
small taverna operates. The vividly painted caiques have given way to ferry
boats, just as donkeys have been replaced by vehicles and the local grocer's
shops have been superseded by supermarkets.

As for the transportation of the
olive oil, it is nowadays pumped into sanitary
tank-trunks. Perama still sustains its charm against a backdrop of beautiful old
buildings. The harbor accommodates today larger ships and the
area grows busier during the peak tourist season, i.e. in the summer.
The intense religious feeling of the people becomes manifest
in every part of the region: the lowlands, the hillside villages and olive
groves, as well as seaside areas, are dotted with picturesque chapels inviting
passers-by in. Many of them bear preexistent architectural parts for they were
built on the same site paleo- Christian churches were once erected.
The church of Saint Nikolaou, patron saint of the sailors is
dominated by Mt Oros. In winter its peaks are lacerated by thunders and the sea
rages. Yet, the Saint watches over seamen sailing in open sea.
Yera Gulf
The
Gulf of Yera has always been and still is the area'a soul and breath. Today, the
life of its inhabitants continues to be inextricably associated with it. Known
to the old Aegean seamen as a secure natural shelter for vessels, the bay of
Yera functioned as a heaven for the Allied fleet in World War I. Perama, the
harbor of Yera, was the area's gateway to the financial worlds of the East and
West.

The gulf is endowed with a rich natural scenery. Elefterios Venizelos utterly
charmed when he first beheld it, said that the bay was not any less enchanting
than the lake of Geneva. The ancient sacred town that was once laid out here,
Iera, lies deep beneath the water, and has probably lend its name to the area.
Apart from its grear natural beauty, the bay is also renowed for its abundant
tasty fish and other seafood. Aparticular species, koutdomoura, has been famed
for its excellent taste since Roman times. The fishermen of Yera, who also
engage in farming at the olive plantations, have their dwellings and small
fishinf harbors in the scenic areas of Evriaki, Marmaros, Pyrgi and Avlona.
The life of the local fishermen both at sea and ashore is toilsome, yet, bears a
romantic character.
The mouth of the bay, similar to fiord, commands an entrancing view to the sea,
with islets standing sentinel acroos the channel and silvery olive trees
reaching down to the shoreline. On the right, exiting the bay, lies the area of
Katsinia, where the taliani, a traditional fishing method, has beeb
practiced for over a century.

Sailing rightwards, leaving Katsinia behibd and bypassing the imposing, steep
rocky mass of Oros, the islands of Myrsinion come to the view. Further beyond,
the superb coves of silia, Ligonari, Tarti, Tsafi, Fara and Yialiotissa can be
seen.
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